Today I explored el Centro and beyond to some of the surrounding neighborhoods. As beautiful and romantic as the downtown area is, it had a comfortingly touristy feel to it and therefore I fit in way too much. I could see the eyes of the vendors light up every time I walked into a shop, and yes I bought too much shit. But of course, what a bountiful trap. Nonetheless, I knew this wasn't where I was going to find what I was looking for so I meandered in an unknown direction, setting my destination for a cathedral I had not yet visited off in the distance. I crossed the main street, bustling with chaos and clamor and found myself on the "other" side of the bridge- off the beaten path.
I'm not completely sure but I think I ended up in the area I was told to steer clear of... "¡cuidate!" It was certainly run down but so full of character- smells textures people etc, and much more exciting (though less pleasant) than el centro. Every neon-colored, crumbling nook was filled with people hard at work on various different jobs- a laundry mat, a barbershop, and a wood shop all crammed into one block with a tiny, tiny, tiny tortilleria on the corner and even stray dogs (my favorite thing). MMMM the smells- bitter and sweet.
I was at last in the right kind of wrong place. You know this when every one who walks by gives you a discrete look of confusion; then there I was snapping photos of EVERYthing. A realization hit me at one point- I need to not let this sort of gringa self entitlement get to me. This happened when I caught myself scoffing and walking in the opposite direction when I spotted two other foreigners
near el centro (some of the first I've seen yet!)... "pinche tourists."
My explorations ended where they began, El Centro, and in a perfect way. I sat down at a Parisian-esque café, ordered a Corona, and much to my delight, witnessed some beautiful live music as a thunderstorm rolled in. Ay, que rico.
some photos from today, click to enlarge!:
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I know, I know- fat kid |
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completely abandoned... WHY!? |
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one of my favorite finds. |
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his sign says "do not throw trash on the ground" |
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...? |
The Dry Cleaners... Why haven't we thought of that!? |
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